Thursday, January 29, 2015

Thanks Joe!

Former long time member and all around good guy Joe Crowley stopped by the studio to demo slip and glazing techniques.  It was great to see Joe at The Guild again as always he did a fine job.
One of his examples of slip trailing was a cup he purchased in Big Fork.  I found this video of Grace Sheese making a similar one.

Thursday, December 18, 2014

Tuesday, September 23, 2014

Thursday, August 28, 2014

July Hints of the Week

July 6th Hint of the Week
This interesting information from Amaco.com
1 cup takes about 1 pound of clay. 1 pint of glaze will glaze 12 cups
1 mug will take about 1 ½ pounds of clay. 1 pint of glaze will glaze 8 cups
1 bowl will take about 2 pounds of clay. 1 pint of glaze will glaze 8 bowls

These are some more tips from the Big Ceramic Store (copyright 2003, Cindi Anderson, www.bigceramicstore.com):
 

To keep a piece from sagging while coil building or hand building, you are "supposed" to only build so far, then stop and let it firm up before you continue. But if you are impatient like me, a great solution is Duct Tape! Wrap it all around the piece so it sticks to itself (it won't stick to the clay.) This keeps the form from bulging so you can continue working.
 

I am always looking for materials to make molds from. A unique method I saw recently was to use hard foam insulation board from the hardware store (the stuff that comes in 4'x8' sheets, usually 1" thick, and is often pink). You can use a utility knife to cut out shapes to use as slump molds. I am going to use this method to make some square plates.
Another method works great for making plates, trays, etc. Find a block of wood (square or rectangular.) Cut a piece of clay larger than the wood. Put the clay on a large piece of upholstery foam. Take your block of wood and press down in the center of the clay. The sides will come up and make nice rims. This looks really great if you impress the rim with stamps before pressing in the center.
 

By the way, if you don't have any upholstery foam laying around, get some! It is great for cushioning work while you clean and trim bottoms, so you don't damage the rims. You can often get free scraps from upholsterers.
 

If you like to stamp, look for interesting textured buttons at fabric stores and flea markets. You can add handles by hot gluing thread spools onto the back, or pieces of thick irrigation tubing cut about 1" long.
 

Another great idea I saw is to tape a small level onto a fettling knife. This way you can be sure you are making straight, level cuts

July 14th Hint of the Week
What can I do if my clay is too dry?

It's not totally dry, but too stiff to work with. Use the end of a broomstick, a wooden spoon, or even a large screwdriver to poke holes in the clay, almost all the way through (leave about an inch at the bottom.) Fill the holes with water. Come back in a day or two and wedge the clay up. It will have absorbed the water and be nice and moist! An alternative method is to cut the clay into slices, soak them in water, then wedge. Or, take a soaking wet towel and wrap the clay with it. Place the whole thing inside the plastic bag. A couple days later, voila! Remember it is important to wedge clay especially when it has been rehydrated, to even out the moist and dry spots. Otherwise you will have difficult throwing, and pieces might warp as they dry. You can also put it in a bucket of water for about a week and dump it in the wet reclaim for pugging.



July 21st Hint of the Week
How to Re-Glaze a Piece
copyright 2000, Cindi Anderson, www.bigceramicstore.com

First, note that this process is never predictable. In most cases you can make a new piece in less time than you can spend re-glazing it, with much more predictable results. But sometimes there is that piece you can't part with and really want to re-glaze. Here are some things you can try to increase your success rate. The goal, of course, is to get the new glaze to stick to the old glaze.

· Spray the piece with spray starch, let dry, then reglaze.

· Spray the piece with sticky hairspray (usually the cheapest you can find), dry, reglaze.

· Heat the piece first, with a heat gun or in the oven or kiln.

· Brush white (Elmer's) glue on, let dry, reglaze.

· Microwave the piece for 30 seconds. (Some potters say this makes a huge difference, and the piece doesn't need to actually get or stay hot)

· Add some suspension agent to the glaze (CMC gum or Bentonite.)

· Add some detergent / shampoo to the glaze (baby shampoo is good because it doesn't foam)

· To improve your odds further, wash the pot first with ammonia or detergent, wearing rubber gloves, and don't touch it. The oils from your fingers can prevent glaze from sticking. And... Don't use too much of anything. If you get the coating too thick, you may prevent adhesion instead of encouraging it.


July 27th Hint of the Week
Tip from Susan Hickman
What to do with the stack of pots you aren't using? Glue them together and make an end table or plant stand! Put the heaviest widest one on the bottom for stability or start with a plate. Then start stacking. If you have a clean fit, any epoxy, power grab or liquid nails will hold. If there are gaps, use a putty epoxy. Top with a plate, or whatever you want at the top. This one has part of a lazy Susan I found at the thrift shop. When you pick this up to move it, grab from the middle or bottom so you won't put too much stress on the glued joints. These work great for in the house or on the patio. Questions? Come talk to Susan


June Hints of the Week

June 2nd Hint of the Week
When to use Magic Water? (From Lakeside Pottery in Stamford, CT)
Magic water is used when the bond between two pieces of clay is a suspect for cracking during drying or bisque firing. Cracks can occur in the following conditions:
When one piece of clay dries faster than the other which typically occurs when it has a smaller mass or thinner than the other piece (e.g., a mug handle).
When one clay piece is applied to another piece that is already a dryer leather-hard (e.g., when waiting is required for a thrown pot to harden before applying hand-built piece).

The above two conditions are more susceptible to cracking because when one piece is dryer that the other, it is therefore shrunk more than the other and will not continue to shrink uniformly after they are attached to each other, thus - creating stress.

When to use Magic Mud / Paper Clay?
Same as above with more extreme cases. It enables the joining process to be less critical and therefore one can build more spontaneously as well as build wet clay on dryer clay. Stress cracks during drying reduce dramatically. It can also be used to connect broken bone-dry pots / sculptures. Sometimes it works fixing broken bisqued pots (needs to be re-bisqued after applying magic mud). When fixing broken bone-dry or bisqued pot, always apply more magic mud / magic slip than needed and build the layers slowly allowing the layers to dry in between applications. The excess slip can be filed down after the bisque firing.

Why does Magic Water work?
Sodium in the soda ash and the sodium silicate is a very powerful flux. The silica in the sodium silicate adds some glass-former. The water is to dissolve the soda ash (which is soluble) and therefore travels a little way into the wet clay. The sodium silicate is sticky and dries really hard and faster than the clay does. The end result is that the Magic Water makes a sticky layer of almost-glaze that soaks into the surrounding clay and dries hard. Thus, cracks are prevented in the drying and the bond is stronger after firing.

Why does Magic Mud /Paper Clay work?
In addition to the reasons mention above (Magic Water), the paper fiber will bond the two pieces of clay better and resist stress more effectively during the clay drying / shrinking process (has no effect during firing).

[*We make Magic Water for you at the Clay Arts Guild. It is in containers in the high fire glaze room. Just fill your own container with what you need. If it is gone let us know and we’ll make more.}

How to make Magic Mud - Recipe?
Chop up 1/4 to 1/3 of a cup of either paper napkin, toilet paper, or paper towel
Add 3/4 to 2/3 of a cup of bone dry clay hammered into small pieces, or powdered. It is better to use the same clay for both, magic mud and your actual project.
Soak overnight in Magic Water poured one inch above clay and paper mixture.
Blend in electric blender
Pour off excess water
The slip created is ready for use


June 10th Hint of the Week
Plaster can be “poison” to pottery. If even a small amount of plaster inadvertently gets into your clay it can be disastrous. Plaster absorbs too much water, causing drying cracks and will probably explode or pop off chunks of clay when fired. Plaster is useful and important in ceramics for molds, wedging tables, drying wet pieces and for ware boards, etc.
It is not a good idea to use metal tools on plaster molds, wedging tables and clay bats as there is the potential to chip or scrape plaster into your clay.
 

Work with plaster away from clay and clean up the area thoroughly. Put down a plastic tarp on tables if you are working with plaster, otherwise the plaster will get into the canvas on the table. The same goes for “Alumina.”
 

We encourage the use of drywall boards to help dry clay. If you do use sheetrock, “drywall” or gypsum boards, to dry clay or for ware boards, make sure that you seal all the exposed plaster edges with tape. Otherwise you will leave loose chunks of plaster around. Be on the look-out for bare edges tape them up with Duct Tape.
 

We have large pieces of sheetrock “drywall at the guild which have been donated for member to use. There was some in the electric kiln room and in the back of Bill Ramsey’s studio against the wall to the northwest of the furnace. These are for your use and you are welcome to cut off whatever you need.
Be sure to cut sheetrock in an area where plaster won’t get into clay or on surfaces where clay will be worked.
Clean up the plaster dust when you are done and tape the exposed edges.



June 18th Hint of the Week
How to Re-Glaze a Piece (BigCeramicStore.com)
First, note that this process is never predictable. In most cases you can make a new piece in less time than you can spend re-glazing it, with much more predictable results. But sometimes there is that piece you can't part with and really want to re-glaze. Here are some things you can try to increase your success rate. The goal, of course, is to get the new glaze to stick to the old glaze.

· Spray the piece with spray starch, let dry, and then re-glaze.

· Spray the piece with sticky hairspray (usually the cheapest you can find), dry, re-glaze.

· Heat the piece first, with a heat gun or in the oven or kiln.

· Brush white (Elmer's) glue on, let dry, re-glaze.

· Microwave the piece for 30 seconds. (Some potters say this makes a huge difference, and the piece doesn't need to actually get or stay hot)

· To improve your odds further, wash the pot first with ammonia or detergent, wearing rubber gloves, and don't touch it. The oils from your fingers can prevent glaze from sticking.

· And... Don't use too much of anything. If you get the coating too thick, you may prevent adhesion instead of encouraging it.


Monday, June 9, 2014

Ever wonder...

 ...how it would feel to run 800 pounds of clay through your hands?

Ask Steve how pugging can change your life